On a work machine the door question is really two: which build survives the abuse, and how much of the cab you need sealed for the season. Framed steel and aluminum doors take constant in-and-out and last. Soft kits cost less and strip off in minutes for summer. A convertible poly enclosure turns the Viking into a year-round cab that still opens up when it warms. Match all of that to your seat count, because the Viking VI needs rear doors the standard Viking does not. Here is how the builds compare.
| Build | Material & sealing | Best for | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| Framed doors | 3/4" tubular steel frame, PVC-coated nylon panels, magnetic latch flap | All-day work and tight sealing, paired with a hardtop | ~$1,384 |
| Aluminum doors | 1-1/4" powder-coated aluminum tubing, automotive-style latch, elbow-high | Durable metal doors for constant in-and-out | ~$720 |
| Convertible poly enclosure | 1/4" tinted polycarbonate, sliding window, removable top and door | A year-round cab that opens up for summer, 2- or 4-door | $2,910–$5,310 |
| Soft doors | 11-oz canvas, 30-mil vinyl rated to -20°F, double-pull zippers | Budget, tool-free, removable, warmer seasons | $299–$515 |
| Skins, frames & hinges | Steel frames, poly skins, barrel and pin hinges | Rebuilding or upgrading existing doors one piece at a time | $34.99–$420 |
Work doors live or die at the latch and the hinge, because a crew climbing in and out 40 times a day destroys plastic clips. Look for an automotive-style latch and a steel barrel or pin hinge, the kind you can buy on its own for $34.99, over molded plastic. The frame matters next: Seizmik runs a 3/4-inch tubular steel frame, SuperATV builds its aluminum doors on 1-1/4-inch powder-coated tubing that sits elbow-high, and its convertible cab doors use 1/4-inch polycarbonate rated 250 times stronger than glass. On soft doors, the numbers tell you what survives a winter. Falcon Ridge uses 11-ounce polyester canvas with 30-mil vinyl windows rated to -20°F, and Greene Mountain sews acrylic windows into a 600-denier PVC-backed shell. Thin fabric and thin vinyl crack in the cold, so the weight ratings are worth reading. One thing we see all the time: the Viking VI gets ordered with a 3-seat kit and no rear doors. Match the kit to your seat count and the crew stays sealed in.
The floor is parts and pieces. A barrel hinge is $34.99, replacement latches are $59.99, and individual door skins run $249.99 to $399.99. A budget soft door set starts around $298.99.
The middle is where most complete-door buyers land, and on the Viking that means soft doors and side enclosures. Greene Mountain side enclosures are $389.95, the Falcon Ridge Viking VI soft upper kit is $497.99, a Seizmik zippered soft kit is $433.99, and 3 Star soft doors run $431.95 to $514.95. A sliding window insert for SuperATV poly doors is $319.95 to $378.95. This band, roughly $300 to $500, closes the cab for real without a framed-door invoice.
The top end is hard and framed. SuperATV aluminum doors are $720.95, the Seizmik framed steel kit is $1,384.14, and the SuperATV convertible polycarbonate enclosure runs $2,910.95 for the 2-door up to $5,309.95 for the 4-door Viking VI setup, the priciest door option on the page and a full four-season cab.
Most door warranties run 3 to 6 months, but Everything Yamaha Offroad does offer extended 1- and 2-year warranties on all products if that is something you are interested in, added right at checkout. Brand terms vary: SuperATV backs its polycarbonate doors 1 year. Every order is covered by a risk-free 90-day return, and Affirm at checkout lets you spread the framed and enclosure kits over time. Building out a clean cab? Send us a photo at customerservice@everythingyamahaoffroad.com and we may feature it on our Facebook page.
These three build the complete Viking door kits that lead the page, from a value side enclosure to a full four-season cab.
Behind those three, DragonFire Racing is the parts-and-repair specialist here, its 13 listings of skins, frames, hinges and latches letting you fix or upgrade a worn Viking door one panel at a time. Falcon Ridge and 3 Star Industries fill out the soft-door bench.
Do the Viking and Viking VI use the same doors?
Not always. The standard Viking seats three on one row, while the Viking VI seats six across two rows and needs rear doors, so the larger kits come in 2-door and 4-door versions. Match the kit and the door count to your seat layout. Most doors fit the 2014-current Viking, with some soft doors and skins covering back to 2013. Send us your year and seat count and we will confirm it.
What door builds does the Viking take?
Four main ones. Framed doors use a steel tube frame with fabric panels for tight, all-day sealing. Aluminum doors are metal half or full doors for durability. A convertible poly enclosure is a hard, four-season cab that opens up for summer. Soft doors are canvas with zippers, the budget and tool-free route. Coverage-wise you will see lower, half and upper doors, and upper doors pair with a windshield rather than replacing it.
What is the best door setup for a Yamaha Viking?
It depends on the work. The best-selling setup is the Seizmik framed steel kit. The value all-weather pick is a soft door set from Falcon Ridge or 3 Star at $299 to $515. For a true year-round cab, the SuperATV convertible polycarbonate enclosure leads. On a six-seat Viking VI, look at the Falcon Ridge VI soft uppers or the 4-door SuperATV enclosure.
Can I replace one cracked door skin instead of buying a whole kit?
Yes. DragonFire sells the Viking door skins, frames, hinges and latches individually, so a barrel hinge is $34.99 and a replacement latch set is $59.99. If one panel takes a hit or a latch wears out, you fix that piece rather than rebuying the set. It is the cheap way to keep an older door kit in service.
Do Viking doors work with a windshield and a heater?
Yes, and on a work machine that is the goal. A heater has nothing to hold onto in an open cab, so sealing the sides with doors, then adding a windshield and roof or a full enclosure, is what keeps the warmth around the crew. Upper doors in particular are built to seal against a windshield, so plan the windshield and the doors together rather than expecting the doors to close an open front on their own.